Table of Contents

Preface
Introduction

Chapter One
i. The Tailor's equipment
ii. The Masculine Body and its Proportions
iii. Measuring the Masculine body - Anthropometrics and Proportionate measuring direct Measure

The Rule of Three - an early form of measuring.

Chapter Two
i. Tailoring systems and the beginnings of mass production
ii. The application of measurements to create patterns
iii. Padding, contour and shape, the origin of the body canvas

The Trouser
a) The Plain Trouser
b) The Pleated Trouser
c) Riding breeches and Jodhpurs
d) Trouser and breeches variations

The Torso and the masculine Block
a) The Vest and waistcoat
b) The Single vest
c) The double Breasted Vest
d) The Formal Vest
e) Livery, and the sleeved vest
f) Novelty vests

Chapter Three

The Basic Jacket Block
a) Manipulation of Block Jacket Patterns
b) The Simple Sack or Lounge Jacket
c) The Double Breasted Jacket
d) The Blazer

Chapter Four

Evening Body Coats
a) The Frock Coat
b) The Riding Coat
c) The Scottish Coatee and Kilt
d) The Tail Coat
e) The Cutaway

Chapter Five

The Overcoat and Its Variations
a) The Raglan
b) The Inverness
c) The Trench-coat
d) The Chesterfield
e) The Military Greatcoat

Chapter Six

The Sleeve Block - and the Sleeve System
a) The Arm and its function
b) Preparation of the sleeve
c) Finishing details of suit sleeves

Chapter Seven

Jacket Collars
a) The collar and its variations

Chapter Eight

Making Trousers

Chapter Nine

Making Vests and Waistcoats

Chapter Ten

Making Jackets

Chapter Eleven

Making Formal Wear

Historic Clothing

Chapter Twelve

The Renaissance
a) The Doublet, breeches and tights
b) The Origins of Padding
c) Renaissance Robes
d) Ecclesiastical Vestments
e) Cloaks and Capes

Chapter Thirteen

The Developments of Tailoring Techniques
a) 16th century garment construction
b) 17th century garment construction
c) 18th century garment construction
d) 19th century garment construction

Chapter Fourteen

The shirt - Its origin and development from the Renaissance to the present

Chapter Fifteen

The Stock, Cravat and Ties

Chapter Sixteen
a) Underpants, drawers and undershorts
b) The Pyjama - from its origins in India to the modern garment
c) Nightshirts - Dressing Gowns, Kaftan and Kimono

Chapter Seventeen
a) Military Uniforms, mass manufacturing and the tailor's showpiece
b) Ceremonial garments, The Ritual clothes of Church and State

Chapter Eighteen
a) Tailoring and the female form
b) The Corset

Chapter Nineteen

Materials used in tailoring

The history of the Woolen Industry and its affect on the tailor's practices. These are the foundations of modern tailoring

Chapter Twenty

Buttons, and variations on closings.
Miscellaneous techniques and recipes for starching, cleaning, pressing and repairing textiles.

Glossary

Index

Bibliography

---------------------

Robert Doyle - A Brief Biography

Robert Doyle was trained in Paris, Europe and London. He created the 18th century clothing restoration of the 18th century Fortress of Louisbourg, Cape Breton, N.S. This began his career in teaching. He went on to establish several design programs at Canada's Universities. The most renowned of these, The Costume Studies Program at Dalhousie University in Halifax, N.S.

While directing this innovating costume program, Mr. Doyle maintained an active design career, designing for many of Canada's professional theatres; the Opening and closing of the Pan American Games in 1999, creating Haute Couture for some of Canada's most discerning women, as well as conducting many workshops and seminars on the process of costume design and making.

His other publications are Waisted Efforts, an Illustrated Guide to Corset Making and Laundry, The Whys and How's of cleaning Clothes.

The Art of the Tailor is the result of forty years of teaching and researching the intricacies of the skill behind the well tailored garment. The patterns are by Mr. Doyle, and from his extensive collection of period patterns. The patterns from the Tailor and Cutter are duly credited to source, and explained, to clarify their complexity.

A video, illustrating the manual dexterity of the tailor will be available in the spring of 2005, when the soft cover edition of this book is launched at the U.S.I.T.T. conference in Toronto.

Sartorial Press Publications
P.O. 1055
Stratford ON
N5A 6W3
Tel: 519-271-7001
Fax: 519-271-6087
Email : newhaven5@sympatico.ca
www.sartorialpress.com